My Chapel Street quilt was designed as an English Paper Piecing project, however that dosen't mean it can't be pieced by hand or even machine.I've made a little step by step tutorial to walk you through machine piecing. I hope that helped you if you are interested in machine piecing Chapel Street. Not so hard after all!The pattern is available as a PDF download and Printed paper version.

I have written this tutorial to help with the piecing together of this block.There are 16 points all meeting in the centre and with seam allowances it can get tricky.This tutorial will have a few tips and tricks I use to get all the points matching in the centre.Grab the Harelquin Stars Pattern here. To start piecing  the star together you need to make the points.This includes 8 right points and 8 left points.These can be completed by the freezer paper method of foundation piecing which I talk about in my pattern or your preferred foundation piecing method. You then need to join these two pieces togther.I like to pin and the top seam and then at the middle to make sure the seams meet.Start sewing from the wide end down to the small end. After you have sewn the points together, you need to trim the seam allowance at the base.I just trim with my scissors making sure I don't clip the stitching. Your completed unit should look like this.Make sure to iron in one direction and repeat with the other 7 units required for this block.You then need to sew two of these untits togtether to make a quarter block.Match the seams at the top and pin, and do the same at the small end.The seams should lock togther as you ironed them in opposite directions.Once again after you have sewn the seam from the wide end to the small end, trim the seam allowance making sure not to clip the seam.The finished quarter should look like the photo below.Remember to iron the seams in all the same direction.See photo below.Here is a close up of where all the seams meet at the small end.This is what yours should look like.Make 3 more of these quarters to complete the star. Add the drunkard's path piece to make the block into a square. Here's a photo of the reverse side too. Now take two of these quarters and sew them togther to create a half.Use pins to match the seams and sew from the outside into the middle of the block. This time iron the seam in the opposite direction to the other seams.See the photo below.For some reason this helps when piecing the 4 quarters togther.Repeat to create another half.Then you need to sew the two halfs togther.Use pins to match the seams, paying lots of attention to the centre. Here's a close up of the pinning.I like to pin either side of the seam, it stops any movement when you sew.You can also use fork pins. Once sewn, iron to one side and press well.I also use "Best Press" to help achieve a flat block. I hope these tips help you to create a block with neatly matched centre points!

Map Of Australia Cushion Finished size: The cross hatch quilting shrinks the cushion front and back in, to make a perfect fit for a 16” (40cm) cushion insert. REQUIREMENTS: 30cm zipper (approx.) Iron on Fusible web such as Vliesofix or Steam-a-seam. Spray baste such as 505 Spray and Fix for basting. Hera marker 16” (40cm) cushion insertPDF pattern for Australia Map, downloadable here - Map of Australia     FABRIC REQUIREMENTS Cushion Front:  Cut 1   12½” x 12½” square Linen fabric for centre square Cut 2   3¼” x 12½”strips fabric for side borders Cut 2   3¼” x 18” strips fabric for top & bottom borders Fabric piece at least 9” x 10” for the Map of Australia Cushion Back: Cut 1  18” x 18” square Linen fabric Batting: Cut 2  18” x 18” squares   CONSTRUCTION   ¼” seam allowance except for outer seams which are ½”. Firstly position and sew the side borders in place, and then the top and bottom borders. Press to the Border.  Trace the Map of Australia (don't forget Tasmania) onto the fusible webbing, and remember to reverse the image. Roughly cut out the Map of Australia shape and then fuse it onto the back of the fabric selected. Carefully trim around the Map of Australia shape, remove the backing paper and position in the centre of the made cushion front. Iron to fuse in place.  Choose a thread to match the Map of Australia fabric and raw edge applique (which means just using a normal sewing stitch), around the edges of the Map of Australia shape. Sew as close to the raw edge as possible, and sew around three times.   Baste the batting and the cushion top together with spray baste. Mark the first two diagonal quilting lines with a Hera marker.  Put your walking foot onto your sewing machine and sew the first diagonal quilting row. Stopping at the Map of Australia. Sew the second diagonal quilting row.  Set your machine walking foot with a 1” seam guide preferably on the left side of the quilting foot, and sew rows 1” apart, working out from the first diagonal rows sewn. If you do not have a seam guide on you walking foot mark all the quilting lines 1” apart with the Hera marker. Cross hatch the entire cushion top. Baste the Backing fabric and batting square together, mark the diagonal lines with your Hera marker as before, and then 1” cross hatch the entire back of the cushion. Now the back and front are completed it is time to sew the cushion together. There is a ½” seam allowance around the entire cushion.  Trim any excess batting, around both the cushion top and cushion back. Neaten the the edges (with a zig zag stitch or overlocker) of both the front and back pieces where the zipper will be placed. We placed the zipper at the bottom of the Map of Australia. Pin the two neaten seams together and using a ½" seam allowance sew  in 3" at both ends of the seam.  Please note: I have used the images from the Kangaroo Cushion Tutorial to show how to insert a zipper. I did this as the process is exactly the same.   Press the seam open along the entire length of the seam firstly from the wrong side to ensure the ½" seam allowance and then from the right side. With the zipper closed place it under the pressed seam and pin the zipper in place. Try to keep the zipper teeth directly under the center of the seam and the pins in the directions you will be sewing.  Attach your machine zipper foot with thread to match cushion fabric and start to sew at one end. The idea is to use the zipper foot as a guide to keep the line of stitching about ¼” away from the zipper teeth. When you reach the zipper pull, stop sewing, leave the needle down in the fabric and lift the foot. Carefully pull the zipper open for a few inches sew along a while and then reclose the zipper. Sew across the end of the zipper taking care to catch the end of the zipper fabric but not the metal end, complete the other side and end.  Once the zipper is sewn in, leave it open, and pin the back and front of the cushion together. Sew around with ½” seam allowance. Trim the fabric bulk from the corners and pull the cushion to the right side.  Place cushion insert inside cushion and admire your work.

A few months ago I was asked to create a project using the beautiful range of Liberty Fabrics.I chose to create a pair of cushions using raw edge applique and circles.I hope you enjoy making these cushions as much as I enjoyed desgining them!Pattern for Liberty Circles Cushions HerePDF template sheet herePDF’s for cushion One placement diagram sheets herePDF’s for cushion Two placement diagram sheets here

KANGAROO CUSHION  Finished size: The cross hatch quilting shrinks the cushion front and back in, to make a perfect fit for a 16” (40cm) cushion insert. REQUIREMENTS: 30cm zipper (approx.) Iron on Fusible web such as Vliesofix or Steam-a-seam. Spray baste such as 505 Spray and Fix for basting. Hera marker 16” (40cm) cushion insertPDF pattern for Kangaroo, downloadable here - Download PDF     FABRIC REQUIREMENTS Cushion Front:  Cut 1   12½” x 12½” square Linen fabric for centre square Cut 2   3¼” x 12½”strips fabric for side borders Cut 2   3¼” x 18” strips fabric for top & bottom borders Fabric piece at least 7½” x 11” for the kangaroo Cushion Back: Cut 1  18” x 18” square Linen fabric Batting: Cut 2  18” x 18” squares   CONSTRUCTION   ¼” seam allowance except for outer seams which are ½”. Firstly position and sew the side borders in place, and then the top and bottom borders. Press to the Border.  Trace the kangaroo onto the fusible webbing (remember to reverse the image if you want the kangaroo to face the same way as the pattern). Roughly cut out the kangaroo shape and then fuse it onto the back of the fabric selected. Carefully  trim around the kangaroo shape, remove the backing paper and position in the centre of the made cushion front. Iron to fuse in place.  Choose a thread to match the kangaroo fabric and raw edge applique (which means just using a normal sewing stitch), around the edges of the kangaroo shape. Sew as close to the raw edge as possible, and sew around three times.   Baste the batting and the cushion top together with spray baste. Mark the first two diagonal quilting lines with a Hera marker. Put your walking foot onto your sewing machine and sew the first diagonal quilting row. Stopping at the Kangaroo. Sew the second diagonal quilting row.  Set your machine walking foot with a 1” seam guide preferably on the left side of the quilting foot, and sew rows 1” apart, working out from the first diagonal rows sewn. If you do not have a seam guide on you walking foot mark all the quilting lines 1” apart with the Hera marker. Cross hatch the entire cushion top.   Baste the Backing fabric and batting square together, mark the diagonal lines with your Hera marker as before, and then 1” cross hatch the entire back of the cushion. Now the back and front are completed it is time to sew the cushion together. There is a ½” seam allowance around the entire cushion.  Trim any excess batting, around both the cushion top and cushion back. Neaten the the edges (with a zig zag stitch or overlocker) of both the front and back pieces where the zipper will be placed. We placed the zipper at the bottom of the kangaroo. Pin the two neaten seams together and using a ½" seam allowance sew  in 3" at both ends of the seam.  Press the seam open along the entire length of the seam firstly from the wrong side to ensure the ½" seam allowance and then from the right side. With the zipper closed place it under the pressed seam and pin the zipper in place. Try to keep the zipper teeth directly under the center of the seam and the pins in the directions you will be sewing.  Attach your machine zipper foot with thread to match cushion fabric and start to sew at one end. The idea is to use the zipper foot as a guide to keep the line of stitching about ¼” away from the zipper teeth. When you reach the zipper pull, stop sewing, leave the needle down in the fabric and lift the foot. Carefully pull the zipper open for a few inches sew along a while and then reclose the zipper. Sew across the end of the zipper taking care to catch the end of the zipper fabric but not the metal end, complete the other side and end.  Once the zipper is sewn in, leave it open, and pin the back and front of the cushion together. Sew around with ½” seam allowance. Trim the fabric bulk from the corners and pull the cushion to the right side.  Place cushion insert inside cushion and admire your work.  

This is a re-post of my simple Rainbow Scrap Quilt Tutorial from my old blog!I recently made a quilt using all my colourful scraps. Whenever I have fabric left over and it's too small to put into the stash I cut the fabric into 2 1/2" squares. So I always have a large amount of squares on hand.I wanted to make a baby quilt for a friend and wanted it to be bright and colourful. I love putting colours together especially into rainbows. Using the old ROYGBIV colour theory, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. Finished Quilt Size: 52" x 60" Rainbow Scrap Strip Requirements:Each row is made up of 24 x 2 1/2" squares Purple:  48 squares  (2 rows)Red:       72 squares  (3 rows)Orange: 72 squares  (3 rows)Yellow:  72 squares  (3 rows)Green:   72 squares  (3 rows)Aqua:     72 squares  (3 rows)Blue:      48 squares  (2 rows) White: 1.2 mts total (112 cms wide fabric)This includes 18  -  1 1/2" x 48 1/2" strips that go between the coloured rows.(includes seam allowance)You will have to join the 1 1/2" strips to get the 48 1/2" needed.And a border of 2 1/2" that goes around the outside of the quilt. I have pieced the quilt in a rainbow pattern and that is why there are less squares of purple and blue.I did it this way because I just don't have as much purple in my stash.The rows go in the order below and you can double check by looking at the photo of the quilt. PurpleRedOrangeYellowGreen AquaBlueAquaGreenYellowOrangeRed PurpleRedOrangeYellowGreen AquaBlue It is a simple quilt using colour as the main design feature.You could make it much larger by adding more squares and also more rows.  

A couple of days ago I posted a photo on instagram showing how I make quilt labels. I was asked to do a tutorial on my method so here it is! I either write the label by hand or print them on inkjet printable fabric. The brand of printable fabric that I like to use is Matilda's Own available through Victorian Textiles.If you can't get a hold of inkjet printable fabric you can try this other option.Jump on your computer and a come up with your label, then print it out. Then use a a light box (if you don'y have one you can use a window or a light under a glass top table) and trace onto fabric using a permanent pen. There are a number of fabrics pens out there on the market, I like to use a really fine one because most pens can bleed a little.. It's also needs to be washable so check the label on the pen. Fabric choice for the label could be a simple as a homespun or calico, matching the colours in the quilt obviously. This label was a left ove from my quilt labeling marathon. As you can see there is a spelling mistake so please just ignore that :) The size of this label is 3.5" x 2". So the next step is to cut the fabric for the edging. On this size label I cut my strips 1.5" wide. If you label is bigger you can use a bigger border, but for this size 1.5" looks good.  Then fold the fabric in half length wise and iron. Then sew two strips to either side of the label. Iron towards the label.   Then you need to sew the two top borders. The way we do this is by cutting the length of edging about an inch longer than the label. Pin in place.   The turn the ends under to the backside of the label and pin in place.  Sew in place. The little trick is you can now flip the border over giving a turned edge ready to slip stitch on to the back of the quilt. Iron in place and repeat on the bottom edge. Here is a photo of the back of the label, when sewing it on the back of the quilt just catch the outside border and tuck the ends in. Your label is now complete, ready to sew onto your quilt!  I often use the leftover binding from quilts to do these labels, but you can just use any left over fabric from the quilt.